It has been a busy few weeks at work for both of us. Throw in helping my mother move and all the yard work necessary to get our house and garden summer ready, and Pete and I were definitely in need of a little R&R. And for us, rest and relaxation means finding somewhere quiet where we can get away from the rest of our lives and enjoy our dogs and the world outside.
Happily, Pete has just the place. While my family is lucky enough to have a small cabin in Emigrant, MT, Pete’s family is similarly blessed with a home away from home next to the Little Thompson River outside of Plains, MT (a town of about 1,000 people). The place is very remote: no cell service, off grid, and a half hour drive into town.
Which suited us just fine.
Now, remote getaways are not ideal for everyone. They are more work than your average trip. Being away from most amenities, you have to plan ahead–toilet paper, water, flashlights, food, warm layers, etc… In fact, if I didn’t have a partner in crime, I would be a little intimidated by the remoteness. Happily, Pete and his family have already done a lot of the learning and planning work; they pretty much have a system. Plus they know all the neighbors–the area tends to draw practical, self-reliant, salt-of-the-earth sorts of people–which definitely makes you feel less isolated.
So, if you are lucky enough to have access to someplace in a wilderness area, I recommend doing your research and being as prepared as possible. Get to know the area and the people in it, and pack more than you think you need, just in case. And if you do not have access to a cabin or don’t like remote getaways, don’t worry. I’ll talk about some other options below. The point of this post is really just to talk about what an awesome little corner of the woods the area surrounding the Thompson River is.
I have two canines who would love to tell you all about the area and how much they love coming to the cabin. They love to splash and play in the creek (technically a branch of the Little Thompson River, but it is small and friendly enough here to feel more like a creek). And there are so many smells to smell! Rocky in particular loves to hunt packrats and other rodents.
The only problem is with so much outdoors to explore, it is hard to keep them from running off. We are trying to use the cabin to teach them to stay close to a certain area, with mixed results so far. The good news is the neighbors are all good-natured about us running after our dogs through their yards.
The Thompson River Drainage
As for puppy exercise, there is plenty of good hiking if you know where to find it. The area is a patchwork of state and national forest mixed with land owned by the Weyerhaeuser timber company, most of which is public access. It is important to have a good idea where you are, however, so you know which set of regulations you should follow. For that, I recommend a good topographical map of the Plains District of Lolo National Forest, which you can buy at a local sporting goods store, or on Amazon.
We had an excellent time hiking. Rocky found small animals to chase. Dug found a mud puddle to wallow in. More or less the usual. Considering it was spring, Pete kept his eyes peeled for both Morel mushrooms and turkey, but sadly we found neither. I guess the dogs had all the luck.
The Thompson River Drainage (really the whole Hwy 200 corridor) is also great for a lot of other activities. Pete’s family has long used the area as a base camp for hunting both birds (turkey and grouse) as well as deer and elk. With multiple rivers nearby–Thompson, Little Thompson, Clark Fork, and Flathead–there are also ample opportunities for fishing and floating. Keep in mind that licenses/permits are required for both hunting and fishing (for more information, visit the Fish, Wildlife, and Parks website), and always be mindful of the rivers. Especially this time of year, during the run-off, rivers can be particularly dangerous. If you are not experienced with whitewater and fast currents, I’d steer clear of the rivers, especially with your four-legged friends.
Quinn’s Hot Springs
Clearly, there are lots of ways to play in the area, but this weekend was all about relaxing. And what better way to relax than a long soak in a hot springs?
Which brings us to Quinn’s Hot Springs, located near beautiful Paradise, MT. (If you thought Plains was small, Paradise has a population of 184!) The resort was founded in 1885 by Irish miner Martin Quinn and his stylish English wife Fannie. It has undergone A LOT of renovations in recent years, and is a fairly classy establishment.
Located on the Clark Fork River in a beautiful mountain canyon, Quinn’s has a number of small pools with a wide range of temperatures from an ice plunge to the hottest hot pool at 106 degrees, with enough options in between that any Goldilocks could find one that is “just right” for his or her needs.
The pools at Quinn’s are clean and not crowded, especially compared to other popular spots like Chico, and the service is very friendly. Walk-in swims are $11 midweek and $13 on weekends and holidays. And you can stay at one of their several lodges or rent a cabin (more below).
While it is a very nice place to visit, Quinn’s does have a few quirks that you might not run into at other hot springs. The most important is that, while guests staying at the resort have unlimited access to the pools, walk-ins need to reserve a three hour session in advance. (That is how they keep their pools uncrowded.) We got lucky and were able to get in without a reservation, but if you are really committed to a soak, plan ahead. Also children under three are not allowed in the pools, and you can’t bring your own beverage container (in my case a water bottle) out on the deck.
In addition to the pools, Quinn’s has a fully stocked gift shop, a fancy restaurant–the Harwood House–and a bar–Quinn’s tavern. Pete and I being Pete and I, when we finished our soak we headed to the bar.
Quinn’s is one of Pete’s very favorite places to get a burger, and after trying out my usual bbq bacon cheeseburger, I can’t fault him for his choice. This version is called the Cowboy Coffee Rub and has hints of coffee and bourbon, with caramelized onions and served on a ciabatta bun. Delicious! To check out the rest of the menu, click here.
Places to Stay in the Area
So now that I’ve talked up the area, do you have to rush out and buy a cabin like ours. Nope. There are plenty of options for places to stay in the area. For starters, you could stay right at Quinn’s, either in one of their lodges or you can rent a cabin (some of their cabins are pet friendly too, for a small cleaning fee!). It is a little on the pricey side though, so be prepared to spend at least $169 per night; the cabins range between $200-$300.
Not feeling quite that fancy? No worries. There are a couple motels in Plains: the Dew Duck Inn and the Glacier Crossroads Lodging. Dew Drop Inn has very good reviews and is pet friendly. Or for a wider variety of options, you can head up the road to Thompson Falls.
In Conclusion
A soak. A burger and a beer. And some laughs watching the dogs be their dorky selves. A perfect recipe for rest and relaxation. If you are looking for a good spot to get away for the weekend, the Thompson River Drainage is a great option.
Where are your favorite places to go for some R&R?