A wave of hot, humid air hit me as I stepped off the plane, and I knew I was back in Kansas City, MO. It’s a place that has played a fairly important role in my family’s history. My grandparents lived there. My dad grew up there. My mom moved there as a young woman. It’s where my parents met. And it was a place my brother and I visited most summers when we were young.
Despite all this, it’s also a place where I have spent very little time as an adult, and have never struck out to explore on my own.
So when I had to make a quick family trip with my mom and brother–they valiantly stood in for Pete on this adventure; he stayed home with the dogs–it seemed like the perfect opportunity to get back in touch with my roots.
I knew I didn’t have a lot of time–we were only there four days, and had a number of family obligations–so I decided to just explore a few highlights that really captured the spirit of the city. My dad always said that Kansas City was about three things: barbecue, jazz, and fountains. So that is where I started.
That may be where I started, but it certainly wasn’t all I found. Before I knew it, I was riding street cars and gondolas, eating excellent Italian food. (I’m a complete Italian food junkie), and getting a much better appreciation of this Midwest city’s rich and interesting history. After four days, I left with a desire to come back soon and discover even more.
1. Barbecue: Jack Stack
With a father from Kansas City, barbecue was not something that was taken lightly in our household. Dad would always say “For the rest of the world, ‘barbecue’ may be a verb (as in, let’s barbecue some chicken this evening), but in Kansas City, it’s a noun.”
So what does it take to be Kansas City barbecue?
Kansas City’s barbecue tradition grew out of its African-American roots. A man named Henry Perry is considered to be the “father of Kansas City barbecue” and both Arthur Bryant’s and Gates and Sons–two of KC’s most famous barbecue establishments–can trace their origins directly back to him. Kansas City barbecue is all about slow smoked meats and a thick sauce that is the perfect combination of spicy and a little sweet. The city is particularly known for burnt ends, so that is what I decided to order (that, and some pulled pork, because I just couldn’t help myself).
Having been to both Arthur Bryant’s and Gates when I was younger, we decided to try another well-respected barbecue restaurant–Jack Stack Barbecue–located on the Plaza, whose owners pride themselves in naturally hickory smoking all their meat. We greatly enjoyed both our meat selections and our side dishes, which included their apparently famous jalapeño cornbread.
2. Jazz: Green Lady Lounge
While New Orleans is generally considered to be the birth place of jazz, it has a rich history in Kansas City as well, dating back to the thriving entertainment era of 1920s and 30s (aided by a corrupt political boss who kept the city open to alcohol throughout all of Prohibition). Kansas City style jazz has strong bluesy leanings, and is associated with some big names in the industry, like Count Basie and Charlie Parker.
We decided to get our taste of jazz by spending an evening in the Crossroads Art District, listening to some live music at the Green Lady Lounge. The Green Lady offers live jazz music everyday with the quintessential ambiance. The decor is a dark rosy red, and the windows were blacked out to keep the atmosphere dark even though it was a bright sunny day outside (we actually had a hard time seeing when we first came in from outside, but our eyes adjusted after a little bit). While there did not seem to be a strict dress code for the patrons, the staff was dressed up (our waitress wore an elegant black cocktail dress) which added to the classy feel of the place.
What I really loved about the place was that its entire emphasis was on listening to jazz music, and everybody was ok with that. There were no TVs. They served a couple cracker platters and lots of cocktails and local beers (I had a tasty IPA from Boulevard Brewing Co.), but they do not serve meals. And the music was a little loud to really carry on much conversation. I found it truly refreshing in our modern age of multitasking and sensory inundation to have a place where you can just go sit and listen to music.
And the music really was quite good. We were there for two different groups. The first–the Tim Whitmer Quartet–was an older-style quartet with a sax and a string bass. The second–Embrey Lovern & Strait–featured an electric guitar and keyboard, and had a more modern funkier sound. I really appreciated the variety, although I admit my old-school leanings meant I liked the first group better. If you have preferences, you can visit the lounge’s website to see who will be playing. Also keep in mind there are different rooms (we mostly stayed in the main lounge), so you have the opportunity to listen to different artists depending on where you sit.
3. Fountains: All Over
I love fountains! Love them! It probably has something to do with my deep-seeded love of water, but whenever I see one, I just can’t help but smile. And they definitely add character, beauty, and calm to the bustling metropolis of Kansas City.
Kansas City is known as the “City of Fountains.” The City of Fountains Foundation was established in 1973 (although several of the city’s famous fountains predate the foundation) after founder Harold Rice was inspired by a trip to Rome. The foundation helps maintain and build fountains throughout the city. There are currently 48 fountains in the greater Kansas City area! And there is even a city holiday–Fountain Day–every April when all the fountains are turned back on for the season. (Source: KC Parks and Rec.)
Sadly, we missed Fountain Day, but we did have a lot of fun checking out a number of cool fountains as we explored the city. Here are a few of our favorites:
J. C. Nichols Memorial Fountain
Probably the most famous fountain in Kansas City, the J. C. Nichols Memorial Fountain is located next to the Country Club Plaza (see more below) and was conveniently only a block and a half from our hotel, so it quickly began to feel like OUR fountain.
The fountain was built in France and originally located in New York, but was brought to KC largely though the efforts of the Nichols family. It features four horses, each representing one of the world’s great rivers. As the name suggests, it is dedicated to J. C. Nichols, one of Kansas City’s innovative developers.
The fountain at night is also a common sight for any KC sports fan, as it is frequently shown during the clips of the hosting city following commercial breaks.
Neptune Fountain on the Plaza
This smaller fountain of the Roman god graces a bustling corner of the Country Club Plaza shopping district. It also seems to be a popular place for street performers, as someone was playing almost every time we passed it.
Firefighter Fountain and Memorial
As a firefighter myself, I was especially drawn to the Firefighter Fountain located in Penn Valley Park. This tribute to the city’s firefighters was built in rememberence of six firefighters who were killed in an explosion in 1988. Behind the fountain is a memorial with plaques commemorating the history of KC’s fire department.
A Few Others, Just For Fun!
Other Areas to Explore in Kansas City:
The Country Club Plaza
“The Plaza” is a high-end shopping district established in 1922 by J. C. Nichols. The area runs along Brush Creek (where they offer gondola rides in the evening), and the architecture is modeled after Seville, Spain. This is an excellent place to come and explore, even if you are not much of a shopper or your budget doesn’t include high end retail splurges (both of which apply to me). The beautiful buildings, numerous fountains, street performers, and other (admittedly touristy) attractions make it worth the visit. Plus, while you are there, you can rub the Wild Boar of Florence’s nose for luck.
The Plaza also offers many excellent lodging and dining options. Hotels range from the budget friendly Extended Stay of America (where we stayed) to the lavish InterContinental Kansas City. Dining ranges from quick snacks and coffee to burgers and barbecue (Jack Stack) to fancy ethnic food. There is very literally something for everyone.
*Italian Junkie Tip #1: Buca di Beppo. The Kansas City branch is located on the Plaza right behind the Neptune Fountain; the brick basement walls and celebrity photos give the place a lot of character. Everything on the menu is served family style, and everything on the menu looks absolutely delicious, so come hungry!
Union Station
Regrettably, we hit Union Station right between the daytime and the nighttime offerings, so there was not very much happening at that moment. Thus, we learned it is important to check times before you set out, although we didn’t really have enough time to do it justice anyway, so perhaps it’s for the best. Union Station is definitely on my list of things to come back and explore further.
Part museum, part working train station, this 100-year-old building has a lot to offer. Nerds like me could have a hay day exploring the building’s history–shoe shine stations, WWI soldier farewells, a mob shoot-out, and speeches by Harry Truman, among other things. If science is more your thing, there is a hands-on science center for kids and a planetarium in the basement. And Union Station hosts national traveling exhibits by the likes of the Smithsonian and National Geographic. The current exhibit features Stonehenge.
Union Station also offers a wide variety of shopping and dining options, a 3-D movie theater, and of course, a full Amtrak Station. There is also a street car option, which runs from Union Station to the City Market (we used it to get to Crossroads and the Green Lady Lounge).
*Italian Junkie Tip #2: Lidia’s. This restaurant belongs to TV host and cookbook author Lidia Bastianich and it is housed in a historic freight building directly behind Union Station. It is known for its pasta trio, unlimited servings of the daily three pasta specials, all of which were amazing. Once again, come hungry!
Museums, Anyone?
Kansas City is also home to a number of well-known museums, including the National World War I Museum and Memorial, the American Jazz Museum, the Negro League Baseball Museum, and the Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art. Anyone with an interest in history, art, or music would find lots to do in Kansas City.
In Conclusion:
While we were successfully able to sample the three pillars of Kansas City (according to my father)–barbecue, jazz, and fountains–it quickly became clear that KC has way more to offer than could possibly be appreciated in four days. Happily, I will always be tied to the area by family connections and sports allegiances. I am already planning another trip to introduce Pete to the city.
So while you may not have thought of this Midwest city as a must-see destination, I would encourage you to think again. Give Kansas City a chance, and you will almost certainly be impressed.
And, as a bonus, there’s the Royals and Chiefs…